The Outback - QLD and NT

Leaving the beautiful lush green QLD coast, after nearly five months of travel, and once again heading west gave us both the feeling that the trip back to our home in Perth had definitely begun. 
But thoughts of home were put aside in anticipation of the the places we had both looked forward to seeing on our way to the NT state capital of Darwin. To get to Darwin, we had alot of ground to cover in a relatively short period of time. Like northern WA, there are large stretches of road to cover between roadhouses in the QLD and NT outback. Almost 2900kms of road in fact. And there are no shortage of experiences to have, even in the middle of nowhere...

The Gulf Savannah region refers to the Northern QLD interior extending to the border of the Northern Territory. Our first stop in the Gulf Savannah was 405kms from Palm Cove just outside of Georgetown at the Cumberland Historic Mine Site

Palm trees quickly gave way to green pastures (pictured) which again slowly gave way to the dry scrub of the QLD interior, of which some areas have been in drought for several years - On the road to Georgetown, QLD

A big day in the car proved too much for Cooper - On the road to Georgetown, QLD

On arriving at our free camp for the night, the locals wandered over to say hello while we were setting up. Actually had to shoo this big guy away as he was eyeing off Blaire's watermelon and getting a little too close for comfort - Cumberland Historic Mine Site, Georgetown, QLD

Sunset over the open plains with a crescent moon just visible - Cumberland Historic Mine Site, Georgetown, QLD

Sunrise the next morning and watching all of the birdlife waking up over the lagoon - Cumberland Historic Mine Site, Georgetown, QLD

Damien's new little helper Blaire who has just started to show an interest in packing up with Dad. Winding up the legs on the van is the kids favourite job - Cumberland Historic Mine Site, Georgetown, QLD

Still heading west our next overnight stay was in the small fishing town of Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria (that's the gap part at the top of Australia between QLD and NT). Really not much here at all, but beautiful sunsets and a great pub on the water.

Black Kite's have become a pest in the area due to being fed the scraps from fisherman cleaning their catch. At the boat ramp, it is common for these birds to snatch food directly from your hand if you choose not to eat under the shelters provided. This one was circling to see if we had anything to offer - Karumba, QLD 

As Karumba faces west overlooking the Gulf of Carpentaria, the sun sets very beautifully over the water - Sunset Tavern, Karumba Point, Karumba, QLD

This statue is a replica of Krys the Savannah King, the largest ever recorded crocodile to be shot (1957). This statue, although unbelievable in its dimensions, has been constructed using the dimensions as documented in the Guinness World Book of Records (8.63mtrs). We passed through Normanton on our way west out of Karumba and had to stop for a look. Check out Damien on top for scale - Normanton, QLD

Yep, there was a very proud lady driving this grader. I'd want a pink one too if I was doing this job! - Roadworks on the road from Normanton to Cloncurry, QLD

Cloncurry
It was a very dusty and frustrating drive on the Burke Developmental Road with long stretches of single lane highway we pulled over a lot for passing trucks and caravans. Once we reached Cloncurry we rejoined the national highway and made out way to our next overnight free camp at Corella Dam.

The Queensland and Northern Territory Air Service (QANTAS) was established here in Cloncurry and the first scheduled mail and passenger service flew here in Nov 1922. The original QANTAS air hanger (pictured) is amazingly still in use  - Cloncurry Aerodrome, Cloncurry, QLD

BBQ Dinner in the outback! Yumm! - Corella Dam, Cloncurry, QLD

Who needs expensive caravan parks when there are amazing places like this to stay for free...yep, Free!!! - Corella Dam, Cloncurry, QLD 

Our first chance in a long time to have a little fire and toast marshmallows with the kids - Corella Dam, Cloncurry, QLD

Cooper having fun playing in the imaginary world of superheroes. So fun to watch him - Corella Dam, Cloncurry, QLD

Wild budgies stopping at the dam for a quick drink before flying away - Corella Dam, Cloncurry, QLD

Mount Isa was our next stop, and the surrounds are rich in minerals and is home to one of the most productive single mines in Australia producing lead, silver, cooper and zinc.

The artificially created Lake Moondarra is a dam that services the town, and mine, for water. The dam here was low in June 2014, and is pictured at just over 30% capacity - Lake Moondarra, Mount Isa, QLD

During World War II and following the 1942 bombing of Darwin, it was felt that Mount Isa may be target as the mine was producing large volumes of ammunition for the war (lead). Mount Isa hospital and the mine secretly built this underground air shelter that was fully equipped as an emergency hospital in the event of an air raid. The underground hospital was never required and so was sealed shut fully stocked following the war and forgotten for over 50 years when it was uncovered during works on the new hospital in the 1990's - The Underground Hospital, Mount Isa, QLD

Blaire nursing a baby doll from the hospital nursery while the guide talks about the history of the hospital - The Underground Hospital, Mount Isa, QLD

Here, the pine beds from the original hospital (pictured left) were eaten away by termites/rats while the underground hospital was sealed. They are one of the very few items that have been reconstructed (right) to demonstrate what it looked like in the original hospital - The Underground Hospital, Mount Isa, QLD

The tent house (pictured) is the only remaining example of the 1930'a temporary mine housing that was once common in Mount Isa - Tent House, The Underground Hospital, Mount Isa, QLD

The tent house contains furnishing and artefacts relevant to the era. I spent ages looking in the few rooms at everything. Some of the things here reminded me of my gran's kitchen when I was very young - Tent House, The Underground Hospital, Mount Isa, QLD

Mount Isa (foreground) and Mount Isa Mine (background) as viewed at Sunrise from the town lookout - Mount Isa, QLD

Whistling kite's greeting the dawn - Mount Isa Lookout, Mount Isa, QLD 

Mount Isa is the self proclaimed ''Rodeo Capital of Australia, and winning competitors from the smaller rodeos then converge on Mount Isa in August each year to compete in the annual rodeo. The town population swells to three times it's normal size over the rodeo weekend - Mount Isa, QLD

Heading west to the QLD/NT border we stopped off for visit the tiny north-western QLD border town of Camooweal (pop. 187).

One of the many giant windmills used to draw bore water into water tanks in the dry interior of the Queensland Gulf Savannah - On the road to Camooweal, QLD

Although we were not around at Mount Isa for the big rodeo, we were lucky enough to be passing through Camooweal for their annual camp draft and rodeo - Camooweal Campdraft and Rodeo, Camooweal, QLD

Riders spectating while awaiting their turn in the arena - Camooweal Campdraft and Rodeo, Camooweal, QLD

The kids watching the bull riding in the arena - Camooweal Campdraft and Rodeo, Camooweal, QLD

Sun setting over the rodeo grounds - Camooweal Campdraft and Rodeo, Camooweal, QLD

Camooweal is only 12 kilometres from the NT border. Funny what you observe about state border friendly rivalry's when you are travelling. I thought 'Wait Awhile' (WA) was the backwards state, however QLD gives the NT a bit of a hard time too! - Camooweal, QLD

Barkly Homestead is a remote homestead lying halfway between Camooweal QLD, and Tennant Creek NT. It is a green oasis in the middle of the outback and provided a welcome rest stop for all of us.

Me: "put your shoes on, there are prickles around"
Cooper: running away barefoot
One minute later.....
Cooper: "Muuummmmm!!!!!"

Cars passing through the homestead for a petrol stop after sunset - Barkly Homestead, NT

Blaire got up for a boogie to the nightly country music entertainment, much to the grey nomad's delight. As her 'wing-mum', I could't leaver her dancing solo! - Barkly Homestead, NT

Rather than head west on the main highway we decided to continue north to the remote town of Cape Crawford and to the famous Heartbreak Hotel.

The lonely drive through the grassland from Barkle homestead to Cape Crawford. I think you can class this as about as wide an open space as you can get! - On the road to Cape Crawford, NT

Heartbreak Hotel, NT. So named to represent the challenges of building a business and making in to work in this remote, harsh, and unforgiving land. If you don't respect the place, it will only bring you heartbreak - Heartbreak Hotel, Cape Crawford, NT

Barman, roadhouse worker, photographer, and singing cowboy - meet Dallas Steele, the local talent providing some original country entertainment while patrons enjoyed a cold beer - Heartbreak Hotel, Cape Crawford, NT

Moving on again it was another 447kms north-west to our next stop at Mataranka. On the way we stopped in at the infamous Daly Waters pub.

The lunch stop at the Daly Waters pub was shared with a film crew working on the movie 'Last Ride to Darwin'... coming soon! - Daly Waters, NT

Normally at a country pub you can leave you signature, or some foreign currency, or a business card to adorn the walls. Here at Daly waters, also feel free to leave, your bra (pictured), your knickers, a hat, your belt, or your shirt. Come in here fully clothed, and leave here naked with no money....! - Daly Waters, NT

This tiny little servo (three bowsers dwarf the building) has an Etamogah pub dimensions kind of feel. Built out of portion and at comical angles it is actually the real fuel stop - Daly Waters, NT

Mataranka is well known for two reasons: the NT's most famous thermal springs, and the home of author Jeannie Gunn who wrote the autobiographical book, We of the Never Never based on her time living at the remote outback Elsey Station from 1902 to 1903.

Damien had a photo taken at this same spot on a road to the NT trip with his dad when he was 14. This is a replica of Elsey Station, which was used for the filming of the movie 'We of the Never Never', as the original homestead and outbuilding ruins (another location) were destroyed during roadworks in World War II - Elsey Homestead and Mataranka Thermal Springs, Mataranka, NT

 Blaire and I at the entrance to the Elsey Cemetery, Mataranka, NT

We made the trip out of town to visit the original homestead site and nearby cemetery. Some amazing stories here of hardship and also the burial place of Aeneus James Gunn 'The Maluka' or station master who died of Malarial dysentry in 1903 (Blackwater fever quite common at the time) shortly after taking over Elsey Station in 1902 - Elsie Cemetery, Mataranka, NT

Mataranka thermal pools have been lined with a concrete seat and steps but the sand floor is untouched and perfectly reflects the brilliant natural blue of the thermal spring water. At a very temperate 32'C, it made for a beautiful and relaxing swim - Mataranka Thermal Springs, Mataranka, NT 

Driving down the main street in Mataranka and I was just about to point out to Damien the sign warning to slow down for a brolga crossing, when two brolgas promptly came out from the side of the road and crossed directly in front of us. I  scrambled to get my camera out to take a photo in time - Mataranka, NT

This is Bitter Springs, the other main springs at Mataranka, in the early morning before the hordes of seasonal tourists had arrived.
Here the springs have been left in their more natural state, the banks are lined with fallen pandanus leaves and there are rocks (pictured) and tree logs lining the floor of the springs. With a pool noodle you can float down the springs about 100mtrs in the natural current then take a walkway back up to the main pool and take the gentle ride all over again. Make sure to avoid the logs, algae, leaves and MANY golden orb spiders that adorn the ride down the spring! - Bitter Springs, Mataranka, NT

Next post takes us through the beautiful national parks and Darwin...